It’s not as if herds of shoppers are thundering into supermarkets and restaurants to buy bison meat. Nonetheless, demand for it has surged. The owner of Los Angeles County’s sole bison ranch can attest to that: she’s seen prices for the meat – extra lean and sweet – climb along with its popularity. Cyndee Donato, who runs the AV Winery and Buffalo Co. in Lancaster, has for years managed a small herd of bison nearby as part of a breeding project. There are between six and 12 animals on her 200-acre property at any time, and her family-owned business processes and sells meat from two or three of them every few years. Between meat from external suppliers and her own herd, she sells about 2,500 pounds of bison meat every year in her retail shop at the winery, where she also carries venison, rabbit and wild boar, among other exotic game. “It’s difficult to make a comparison across the board, but I can retail ground buffalo at $10.99 per pound right now and ground venison at $8 (a pound), which shows you the pressure on ground bison,” she said. For comparison, ground beef retailed for $3.69 on average in July, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. The bison industry is reaching out to ranchers to persuade them to raise more animals. That’s because demand is outpacing the supply: Bison-meat sales have increased more than 22 percent in the last five years, topping $340 million last year, according to data from the National Bison Association. Where buffalo roam Donato noted that while she continues to be able to provide enough meat to keep up with local demand, larger operations are struggling. This is particularly true for the traditionally cheaper sectors of the industry, such as for ground meat or what’s called the trim market. “There has been tremendous pressure placed on the trim market in recent years due to large chains, like Ruby Tuesday, offering bison burgers on their menus,” Donato said. “This has translated to a rise in prices for ground buffalo. … You can almost get a bison steak for the same price you’d pay for ground meat.” Though Ruby Tuesday discontinued its bison burgers several years ago, other restaurants have jumped on the trend. At custom burger chain The Counter, which has a location in Studio City, the bison burger is one of the most popular menu items – and at $16, one of the most expensive. Ted Turner’s Ted’s Montana Grill boasts the world’s largest bison menu, with the meat featured in everything from sliders and chili to nachos and meatloaf. While many Americans use the terms “bison” and “buffalo” interchangeably, there is a distinction between the two. Bison are the large, shaggy mammals that once roamed North American in massive herds, their territory stretching from Canada to Mexico. “Buffalo” are similar, but without the telltale hump; they are found in Africa and Asia. The confusion stems from early settlers to the Americas, who apparently believed the beasts they encountered here resembled the buffalo of the “old world.” Back then, somewhere between 30 million and 60 million wild bison resided in the United States, a number that dwindled to nearly zero by the early 1900s. Conservation efforts have restored their numbers to about 260,000 between public and private herds, and in May, President Barack Obama designated the bison the country’s official “national mammal” under the National Bison Legacy Act. Better than beef According to Dave Carter, executive director of the National Bison Association, the robust market for bison meat won’t be going extinct anytime soon. “The bison market used to be really volatile, but over the last few years, it’s stabilized,” Carter said. “That’s on account of three factors: The health benefits, the sustainability and the taste.” To the first point, the evidence is in the numbers. One hundred grams of raw bison meat contains 109 calories, 22 grams of protein and just under two grams of fat; the same amount of grass-fed ground beef clocks in at 198 calories, 19 grams of protein and 13 grams of fat. Additionally, bison is considerably higher in iron, magnesium and potassium. Bison also beats beef in terms of sustainability. Besides being less likely than cattle to overgraze, their smaller numbers mean less methane emissions. Of course, scaling up the supply would alter this ratio, but according to Carter, catching up to cattle would require many, many more bison than are currently roaming the plains. Another big bonus for the health-conscious consumer is that by law, bison are all-natural. “It’s illegal to give bison the kinds of antibiotics and growth hormones used in the cattle industry,” Carter explained. “That leads to a longer wait time before ranchers see a payoff, because bison take longer to raise than cattle, but once you get past the first three years you’re seeing significant returns.” As for the taste, bison fans say it’s a no-brainer: Though leaner than beef, bison meat is slightly sweeter. “People are afraid to try it, but once they do, they’re hooked,” Carter said. “There’s nothing quite like it, and it’s delicious no matter how you cook it.” Ranching challenges Besides the relatively lengthy cycle between birth and breeding or processing, bison ranchers face other challenges that may prevent them from scaling up their herds. Two of the biggest barriers are space and adequate fencing. “Bison need a lot of room to roam, and you can’t just put up any fence to keep them in – if it’s not strong enough, they’ll go right through it,” Donato said. Proper pens don’t come cheap. Land and fencing are by far the most expensive aspects of running a bison business; according to figures from the National Bison Association, rented pasture land and fencing runs about $360 per animal, or $21,600 for a herd of 60. “The fence also has to be tall enough, because these guys will jump right over it,” Carter said. In California, ranchers must also contend with an issue that impacts all of the state’s agriculture industry: drought. Bison require plentiful grass for grazing, but they also need significant amounts of water to prompt them to eat. Without it, females cannot produce sufficient milk and calves’ growth is limited, resulting in less productive animals. For Carter, one of the biggest selling points for those breaking into the bison business is the supportive community. “Veteran bison ranchers love helping new folks get started,” Carter said. “We’re a very passionate group that believes strongly in what we do.” Donato exemplifies this. While she has no intention of scaling up her own herd, as she prefers to focus on her winery and likes the atmosphere of running a small family business, she is always willing to consult with industry newcomers. “I’ve just spoken to a young couple in Tehachapi that is considering raising bison on their ranch as a serious enterprise,” Donato said. “I believe that under the right conditions, raising bison (here) could be profitable due to the increased demand for the meat.” If Donato is right, perhaps the Antelope Valley will be the next home where the buffalo roam.
